Tag: glastar
Metalworking Tips
Deburring rivet holes: A 3" Scotchbrite wheel in a variable speed drill motor does a very fast job of deburring long lines of rivet...
Riveting the GlaStar Top Skins
Riveting on the top skins: I used saw horses, carefully set up, to support the wings instead of putting them back in the wing...
GlaStar Wing Assembly Tips
Positioning the leading edge wing skins: In positioning the leading edge wing skins, I found it easier to start by clamping one edge in...
Fiberglass Parts Warping in Hot Storage
Glenn Culver sent this tip.
I've had a problem with warped GlaStar doors after storing them in a hot location. If I were to do it...
Aluminum Skin Protective Plastic
While building and storing the various pieces of your GlaStar it is advisable to leave the white protective coating on the skin sections as...
Rib and Skin Fitting
Skin/rib fitting: I'm sharing my experience with horizontal stabilizer skinning, for the benefit of anyone else who's having trouble pulling the skin far enough...
GlaStar Tail Wheel Fitting Tip
For those of you using the tail wheel option, having just attempted to fit this, be aware that the instructions in the manual, Steps 90...
GlaStar Control Cable & Control Stick Installation Tips
Pulley spacers: Cut spacers (from 3/8" tubing) to put in between the pulley guards(and over the AN3-17 bolt) on the front pulley group. For...
GlaStar Fuel System Tips
Fitting fuel tanks: When fitting the fuel tanks into the wings, the spar spacing at the upper wing surface tends to spread apart when...
Marking Parts
The purpose of marking parts is to be able to find it and place it in an assembly where it's supposed to go. Using...