GlaStar Baffling Tips

Baffling: I used the Vans’s RV-6 intake, carb air box, and baffling. I find them to work well and efficiently. I did have a cooling problem as Craig O’Neill mentioned, but it was due to the fact that I had the early cowling, designed for the IO-240, instead of the O-320, which I use. The cooling air intakes were quite a bit smaller than the later ones designed for the O-320. So I have had to do quite a bit of work on it to get it to cool. Done now and flying well, and staying adequately cool, even at 95 degrees OAT. The clincher was to use 3 inch scat tubing to the oil cooler with a short run (12″), vs. 2″ tubing with a long (3′) run. I think you should not be afraid to use the Van’s RV-6 system.

–Paul Hansen


SH Lycoming baffling kit: Before installing SH’s Lycoming baffling kit, make sure that you have Revision C of the instructions. Page 7 has instructions and an illustration for installing the left forward baffle brace. If you can make sense out of this drawing, please explain it to me! I finally put it on the only way possible that I could see. The drawing must be a mirror image since there’s no way that the intake manifold is forward of the left forward baffle. It is a “view looking up” but it makes no sense even if you stand on your head! Another error, at least on my engine, is on page 6, step 6, second paragraph. The threaded boss takes a 10-32 screw, not a 1/4″-20 and there is no hole pre-drilled in the heat deflector.

–Jay Tabor

O-360, fixed pitch, Van's induction system and baffling. Photo: Martin Baumer
O-360, fixed pitch, Van’s induction system and baffling. Photo: Martin Baumer
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